A Mzungu in the District

Although I love Washington DC immensely, I will never be cured of my insatiable wander lust.  

Keeping in touch...

I got a great email from my little host brother and sister and thought I would share it with you guys (if you are still reading it). I definitely cannot wait to go back and see them (Andrew especially).

Alyssa

Hi Alysa,

Happy new year!

hi alysaa. how are you? ihave missed you so much. How are your mam and dad. I miss the way we were playing with your.And i also miss braiding your hair
The stuff that you promised to send were; a packet of chrips, a couple of disney story-books, crayons, coloured pencils, drawing pencils or pacstels and a nice drawing, a nice set of rubber/eraser, pen, childre makeover and anything else that you fancy for me.

Everybody say hi and they miss.


Valarie.

Hi Alysa,

This is the gentle man,its been such along time since we communicated. so how are,you,Iguess your are good. How is life going on in America.I hope you have already adjusted to the life over there.

My exams went well even though I didn't really get what I expected to get. I got three hundred and sixty seven marks out of five hundred. My expectations were on four hundred and above.I really miss you soooo much that I don't think I have got the vocabulary to explain this. Oh and when are you coming back! I also never saw the sucess card, what became of it?

My regards to your family

Andrew

A little more detail....

Things have been so amazing here. I will give a more detailed description of the last two weeks, as my last blog was quick and vague.

I had my week long summer camp for the children of a primary school, ages 10-15 half being orphans and half not. To begin the camp was hell. I received little help from the host organization in planning, and had to chase my host supervisor around in preparation. I worked all weekend to finish preparing the manuals for the instructor and the students. Another FSD intern, Brenna, helped a lot and prepared all the material for the health day, as she is a community health major. We finally began printing the manual at 3 on Sunday, and went to lunch while it printed. I was hoping to go back and pick up the packets, and hang out with Habib a little who came to town to meet me, before going home and cooking Mexican food for my host family. When I got back to the internet café, they had run out of paper and there was non left in town. Camp began first thing Monday morning, and the clock was ticking, because I can’t really be out after dark. Habib was very helpful and looked for places to find paper, but for some reason the people in the internet café didn’t feel like working, and when it was too late to do anything, there was no paper to be had. I had to improvise and bring the papers for the next day, without the entire packet being complete. It didn’t help when the other intern met me after getting her hair done all day, and was annoyed I didn’t print it the day before. She hadn’t helped with any of the preparations, so I didn’t take this comment so well. I got home frustrated and upset that I was marginally prepared to hold a week long camp the next day for fifty students and missed my chance to hang out with Habib. I was looking forward to cooking Mexican food, as eating Mexican food would provide comfort and remind me of home, and the act of cooking itself is highly therapeutic. After rushing home from the stress of camp preparations, I found my house girl cooking Ugali. Apparently my host brother couldn’t go one day without eating it, so I would have to cook the next day. That was the last straw. I broke down and cried. It was hard for me because the Kenyans all around me could not relate, understand, or empathize with the stress I felt. I think Americans are inherently stressed out and Kenyans are inherently relaxed, which made the situation worse for me.

Luckily the rest of the week went much better. I was able to print out a copy of the facilitator manual on Monday, and Brenna and Gladys were so helpful in having the actual camp. They are naturals with children, and the week turned out to be so much fun. We began every day taking piki pikis (motorbikes) to the school, along a beautiful rural road. It was such a relaxing way to begin the day. The children turned out to be great, and it was fun to interact with them and get to know their different personalities. Although they were shy and quiet the first day, confusing me and making me think no one understood English, they became very involved and active the rest of the week. We introduced school favorites to play with the children such as red rover and steal the bacon. It turned out the children were much rougher and resilient than American children. During the game of red rover, the children ended up clothes lining one another, moving the arms up so their small peers ran strait into the arms at their necks, and flying to the floor. They all surprisingly got up and laughed immediately, where most times I have seen that resulting in tears. It was a fun and exciting week, resulting in many funny moments. It was definitely the most fun work week I have had in Kenya. During the sexual health section the children ended up asking very funny questions such as the boys asking the FSD intern Jordan if the white man goes through puberty changes and the girls asking Brenna why some Mzungus are brown like Brenna (Brenna is of Portugese descent) and others aren’t like me (Fair skinned, light everything Norwegian). There was never a dull moment. I don’t know what I would have done without Brenna’s help.

To reward ourselves for a job well done, we took ourselves to Jinja, Uganda. It was also Bethany’s 21^st birthday and we had to celebrate in ways not possible in Kakamega, Kenya. Jinja, Uganda was my first choice for my internship, and after spending a weekend there, I must admit, I was a little jealous I didn’t get put there. I love Kakamega, and I feel I have learned a lot and it is a great experience for personal growth, but Jinja is just so much fun.

On the way there, we had some small problems in the border crossing. Bethany almost got arrested by Kenyan officials. Apparently when you apply for a six month visa, it does not mean you get it. When you enter the county, the immigration officers randomly decide how long you can stay, and write in chicken scratch the length next to the big visa that says six month, so it is quite confusing. Bethany was only given one month, but had no idea, so two months into the program she had clearly overstayed. I think this is a horrible tactic to elicit bribes, but luckily we have program directors and coordinators who were able to help.

To my surprise, the roads in Uganda were worse than the roads in Kenya. I did not think this was humanly possible, but I quickly found out it is. Most Kenyan roads, especially the one from Nairobi to Kakamega as it is less traveled by tourists than others, are atrocious. Our bus ride to Kakamega which should have taken only 4 hours or so, took over nine and felt like I was on a roller coaster the whole way. The roads are so uneven and covered in potholes, that most of the time the vehicle is on the side of the road avoiding the mess. It was unfortunate to find out the road from the Uganda-Kenya border to Jinja was worse than this. When we arrived we quickly ate the things we had been missing out on, such as veggie burger. We met some people from Davis, California who were doing Engineers without boarders and began a game of cards. We ended up going out for dessert and drinks and a restaurant called Ginger on the nile where we ran into many other expats. Our stay at Ginger included a nice walk down to the nile light by a full moon, and ended with our friend Bethany on the bar for a proper 21^st drink with several American men, for some reason shirtless, dancing and singing around her. We went from there to a club called Sombrero, which I was hoping was oddly themed like a Mexican restaurant, but instead resembled the laser tag arena in the bowling alley near my home. We danced the night away, but couldn’t stay too late as we had rafting in the morning.

I could barely sleep I was too excited to go white water rafting on the Nile. I kept thinking of National Geographic footage of crocodiles and hippos feeding, and was hoping there would be none awaiting us when we flipped out of the rafts. I was also worried I would fly so far away from the rafts that I had to swim for miles in still water, completely vulnerable to all awaiting animals. I knew I would love it the second I got in the boat. Water is the one thing I have missed most the summer. We can’t swim in still water as there are too many gross surprises waiting to bore into our skin, as many people bathe and use the bathroom in most lakes around Kakamega, so swimming hasn’t been an option. I was jealous of my friends who are spending their summer surfing and at the beach, but the second I got in the raft it was so worth it. We began by practicing flipping the raft and swimming under the boat. I got more and more nervous as we approached the rapids, as within the first few rapids, we were going to go through a class 5, which even my experienced rafting friends haven’t done. Our tour guide was quite melodramatic and kept saying we were going to die or shit ourselves. These weren’t the most comforting of options, so my nerves were having trouble settling. We went over a few small rapids, and began with Bujagali Falls as our first class five rapid. Unfortunately the falls are going to be gone soon, as they are near the new dam that is being built. We waited as the guide explained what we should do when we got into the rapid, and saw our friends from the hostel who had biked to the falls. We were the first to go, and we flipped half way down. I ended up under the boat holding on to the rope, shocked since I was sure I would be the one to forget. I was able to get myself from under the boat, and the guide turned it back over. I was happy I have spent a lot of time surfing, as it fully prepares you for relaxing in big waves and swimming yourself to safety. Brenna and Bethany had to be rescued by Kayaks as they had flown from the boat, and luckily our friends from California got this all on tape. We were the first boat to flip, and got named team flipper. The rest of the day was filled with 3 more class 5 rapids, and several smaller rapids, paddling and swimming down the nile which is one of the most beautiful places I’ve been, enjoying pineapple and local entertainment from our guides and the naked children bathing along the shore who broke into dances every time we passed. It was definitely one of the most amazing things I have done yet and I highly recommend it to all visiting East Africa. We went to a barbecue afterwards, which was a great way to end the day.

The next day we decided to go mountain biking. I haven’t been biking in a long time, and was worried I somehow forgot despite the common adage about the easiness of getting back onto a bike again. Fortunately I was okay, and we spent the day biking to Bujagali falls, around town and the villages, and to a place where we took a boat to the source of the Nile. I was even lucky enough to find a café with iced lattes along the way. Taking a boat down the river Nile was absolutely gorgeous, and I decided this is one place I wouldn’t mind buying a house one day. After biking all day, and rafting the night before I was sufficiently sore. It felt good to do so much activity, since lifer in Kakamega isn’t too active. We went to dinner at Two Friends, where we had delicious salad, pizza, and chocolate cake. We were joined with the manager of our hostel, Nash, who is good friends with our program coordinator Angie. She warned us about him, as he is quite good looking and a Casanova, which is surprising with my experience with Habib being the exact opposite, and they are both Kenyan. It is amazing the difference between Kenyans in the rift valley and Western province. We ended up playing darts, as there was little else to do with it being a Monday night.

I was sad to leave Jinja the next day. It was such a fun weekend. I definitely am going to have to return. Life in Kakamega has returned to normal, but unfortunately I have started saying goodbye to my friends. Three more weeks until it is my turn to leave. I can’t even begin to comprehend what that will be like.

All good things come to an end.

Today I decided I would take the family to Habib's Kinyozi to get their heads shaved. I left for work, and almost sent him a message saying we would be coming, but I figured I would tell him when I passed his place. When I was approaching something looked very strange on Amalemba. There were people doing work where Habib's Kinyozi was. Then I realized it wasn't there. His kinyozi had been burned down. It was horrible. I checked my phone, and I message came through from the morning of him telling me what happened. I stayed for a while talking to him. It makes me so upset. It wasn't a problem with the wiring as I was hoping. Someone had put petrol and burned his Kinyozi. He was so strong about it. Luckily he takes his stereo, music, and razors home every night.

I just can't believe the place I was sitting and chatting with Habib last night listening to Reggae music is gone. Two days ago he was telling me his plans to expand the kinyozi and make it a bigger business once he saved the money. I feel so horrible that this has happened to him. He is such a good guy. To rebuild he needs about 100$, but since this business is his livelihood and insurance isn't available in Kenya on semi permanent structures, I'm not sure what he will do. If anyone wants to help him out with a few dollars let me know.

My host mom horrified me saying she thinks it was my fault. She has this theory someone was jealous of him for hanging around me. It makes me furious that I have to worry about being around people because others may get jealous. Habib thinks its because his business is successful so others were jealous. How can you do well and be successful if you have to worry about others being jealous and taking it away. I am just thankful no one is hurt and he has such a good attitude about it. I will miss hanging out in his Kinyozi so much, as it was the only place we could be together.

Life is good.

Everything is going so well. The thought of my impending departure from kenya, less than one month, is making me very sad. Two of the other interns are leaving this week and I cannot even believe this trip has gone by so quickly. My project last week, a week long summer camp for kids, went really well. For a treat we went to Jinja, Uganda for the weekend. It was the most amazing weekend I have had to far. We went white water rafting on the nile and mountain biking.

White water rafting was the most amazing thing I have done so far in life. For my first time rafting, we went over 4 class 5 rapids, and we managed to flip on the first rapid. We spent the day with the excitment of the rapids, and the relaxation of swimming lazily in the currents of the nile. The scenery was more beautiful than any of the flims or images I have seen of the nile. I fell in love with rafting.

We also went out dancing for one of the interns 21st birthdays. It was one of my latest nights in East Africa so far, coming home around 4 am.

We went mountain biking down to the falls we had flipped on the day before, and took a boat through the source of the nile. I managed to get an iced latte which made me so excited.

I am hoping to go back to Jinja very very soon. It is amazing place. My life is currently very very good.

Habibi?

I am not entirely sure how things are to be classified with my Kenyan crush, but things are going quite well. He surprised me by visiting me at work the other day which was great. I was working on preparations for my camp and my coworker said “Habib is here.” For some reason I thought she was joking, and had to fight the nervousness when I realized he was actually about to enter my work. It was quite a pleasant surprise since I was having a frustrating and upsetting day. I went by his Kinyozi when I finished work and sat and talked to him for a while. It is becoming part of my daily routine. Since there are not cafes, or anywhere really to sit and talk to your friends and listen to music, I have turned to the Freedomtown Kinyozi on Amalemba. Habib and I sit inside and listen to metro fm, the local reggae radio station which Habib loves, and talk in between when customers come in for a hair cut. He teaches me Kiswahili and we share what life in California/Kenya is like. It must look ridiculous to outsiders, as the gaps in conversation are filled with silly looks and googly eyes at one another. He told me he was having a great day because he could spend time with me. It is ridiculously cheesy and silly, but refreshing and needed. He walked me home, but because there are so many people around all the time, all I will manage is a good night hand shake. As a Mzungu (white person) in Kakamega, it is nearly impossible for Habib and I to actually date. It is quite a conservative area in general, so we are already pushing the limit by hanging out all the time, but because I am American it is so much worse. My host mom always scares me and says that I am putting him in danger by hanging out with him because others will get jealous I am spending time with him and not them. I guess it is for the better because this next week I have my big project, a one week day camp. After that we are taking a trip to Jinja, Uganda for white water rafting for four days. After that I only have about three weeks before leaving Kakamega to Nairobi. I enjoy the time I spend with him. He keeps asking if I will remember him when I return to America and he always says that he wishes me the best luck when I finish school (so soon) and am looking for a job. It is just so nice to meet a sweet guy who is genuine. He even wants to buy me the shoes the Masai warriors wear made from tires because they are essential in the mud. He is definitely one of many Kenyans in Kakamega that make me not even want to think about leaving.

Kuna Matope Kilapahali (There is mud everywhere).

With it being the rainy season in Kenya, mud is everywhere. I had not even considered what unpaved roads were like in the rain until I arrived in Kakamega. I stay in Amalemba, one of the muddiest parts of town. This past week mud became an unavoidable thought. It began on Monday, when I could barely walk home it was so muddy. I ended up breaking my flip flop and walking home barefoot. Everyone was laughing and kept asking ‘Mzungu, where are your shoes?’ These two boys have asked me everyday since, what happened to my slippers. I really should get shoes that are more suited for mud, rather than my havianas. Habib tells me he will get me the Masai shoes made from tires, just like his pair, which allow you to glide through the mud with hakuna shida (no worries).

I smartened up a bit and the next day I wore shoes to avoid this situation again, and it was the most rainy day I have experienced in Kakamega. I was walking to town and it started pouring, and I had to seek shelter. I ended up in a cyber café, and was able to read emails while I waited out the rain. When it settled down, we went to the school we are having the camp at next week. We took piki-piki’s (motorcycle taxis) which I always love, except when I got off and realized how much mud splashed on to me from the wheel and ongoing traffic. It made for an interesting experience to walk through a teachers meeting to the head office, with our legs covered in mud. Luckily most people ignored our filthiness. We had a successful meeting, and were hoping to get home early and accomplish a lot of other work. On the way back by piki piki to where we take the matatus (mini-van/bus) back to town, there was a lot of commotion, and we saw a couple matatus taking a back road and struggling because it was so muddy. We paid little attention to what was going on, but when we got to the main road, we found out that there were a lot of police check points, so the matatus were going by the back road so they would not receive a ticket, as none would pass the inspection. We had to pay 30 bob (ksh) more than usual, which was frustrating, and when we finally arrived in Kakamega, I was tempted to ask for my money back, because of the ridiculousness of the route. We ended up sliding back and forth on the muddy roads the entire way. The journey was inflated by two hours because we kept getting stuck in ditches, and having to push the matatu out. I was pretty sure that the matatu was going to flip onto its side, and I would be stuck on the side that was furthest away from the door. We had to keep getting out and pushing it, after the car surprisingly would get caught in ditches, following the haphazard driving. One time when we were pushing, and couldn’t help but laugh when one of the men helping, decided he had better things to, and walked to the maize on the side of the road to relieve himself. To make it worse the matatu driver on this trip was a creep. Matatu conductors are an annoying breed by nature of the job, forced to hackle and call people to get them on board, shove as many people in one van for a maximum profit, and bribe police to get past checkpoints. This one was particularly disgusting. He was sitting behind me in all the madness of the mud, and kept trying to rest his head on my shoulder, while he was breathing heavily. I have to say this was one of my least favorite matutu rides, and I was overjoyed when it was over.

I was shocked when I had to relive the horror of the mud a few days later. All the FSD went to Lisa’s house because her internship ended and she was going to Nairobi the next day. We all went over to say goodbye and I was shocked with joy when we were greeted with chips, guacamole, pizza, and burritos. It was a wonderful treat. We ended up leaving after dark, so we took a taxi home, as Kakamega isn’t somewhere you can walk home in the dark. We started out on a back road short cut, hoping to get home and in bed quickly, as for some reason life in Kenya is quite tiring. We had to stop abruptly as a car was stuck across our route, and in absolutely no hurry to get out of the mess. They had been there for two hours, when their friend promised he would get help, and they said they were thinking he would be back in the morning so they were comfortable there for the night. This made turning around in the mud awkward but we were able to do it. We dropped a few of the interns off, and when we were starting to my house we got stuck again. This time we had already dropped off all male interns, and were four girls plus Malova our taxi driver stuck in a ditch at night in Kakamega. I was not too happy about this predicament, as a few weeks ago five European missionary women were raped and robbed not too far away. I remembered quickly why I am not out after dark. A car passed and he stopped, to tell us we needed big strong men to help us and us poor women oculdn’t do it on our own. I am stubborn and the thought of a gang of men coming to “help” us in such a vulnerable state, so I made everyone try to push us out, hoping to prove this asshole wrong. Unfortunately with the angle of the car and the amount of mud, we weren’t, and were forced to be sitting ducks for the gang of strong men we were told were on the way. Other interns ended up stepping knee deep into wet mud, and falling over. It was quite a sight. We waited nervously for the men to arrive who we were promised would could carry the car to the road and I pictured them carrying all of our things with them as well. When the gang arrived, I was sure it was a bad idea, as they joked and made comments about our vulnerability. They said that this was a real African experience and helped us like the real men they were. When we were safely back in the car holding our things, we realized that we would only have to pay them for their work. We were told the help cost us 600 ksh, and were relieved that with our vulnerability that was all they wanted. Apparently that was the friend rate, as they knew our taxi drivers. My host father just laughed when I arrived two hours after I called saying I was just ten minutes away, and assured me that 400-600 ksh was the cost of a good deed in Kakamega. At least I am getting a real African experience.